Contactcombat,

Before I share information I want to be very clear.  I train guardians who protect human life.  My preferred breeds are generally the herding/working breeds are my bread & butter (Doberman, Malinois, German Shepherd, etc...)   I currently have a Giant Schnauzer.  So I am NOT a CO expert.  Keep that in mind as you finish reading.  Others who read this who are CO experts can jump in & tell the OP if this is good or bad idea.  Your breed is not one I've personally handled so...

One of the old ways of training a guardian for the home is that only the immediate family are allowed to handle, feed, pet the dog in the home.  Once the pup is about 8 months old I begin to put the dog away when most company comes to visit.  This builds suspicion in the dog.  It doesn't mean I'm keeping a latch key dog.  When friends I can trust to listen (& no alcohol is involved) I will bring the young dog out on lead.  Turn them out for a bathroom break.  I collect them put the lead on & bring them into the room.  The dog is at a down-stay by my chair.  No contact.  It's very blunt to the dog that he's being held at a hands-off.  The dog must learn he can be in the room without being the wal mart greeter.  Some dogs take to this very quickly & will begin to lash out without provocation at strangers.  This means I must stabilize the dog.  So I suit up a trusted person & NO BITEWORK is preformed.  The equipment is a safety precaution in the event the dog goes on someone & makes contact.  So I will have the person approach, tell my dog "it's okay" which is the sign that no aggression is called for.  I will shake hands with this person so the dog sees physical contact alone isn't a threat.  Every step of the way I am communicating with the dog.  "It's okay", sit... heel... etc... the dog is working all the while I'm meeting & greeting the dog. 

No stabilization... no guardian.  A loose cannon is a liability.  So there must be stabilization first.  Next for someone with no training in this the means to set the dog up for testing if he's going to defend is to have someone you don't expect the dog to be kind to.  Have this person come up to the door or windows.  Have them peek in.  Have them scratch at the window.  Have them try the door knob (BUT DO NOT OPEN THE DOOR).  I had one helper who did that & had a face full of Belgian Malinois pup, thankfully I was on top of my game that day.  There needs to be ZERO contact.  Especially with a big brusier like a CO... a mistake in listening by this person could be fatal or in the least require stitches or plastic surgery.  So this is NOT a game.  But the point is to peak the dog's suspicion & gauge his reaction without contact.  99% of the guardian's job is going to be like this unless you live in a bad neighborhood.  My dog is currently collecting chunks of cloth from idiots.  But you as the handler, your job in with your dog is to be calm.  You'll ask the dog, "what is it?"  "Is it somebody?" in a serious but hushed tone.  If you see the person  you tell the dog, "watch 'em"   If the dog woofs, you respond, "Good watch"  You don't get excited & go over the top.  You remain the calm in the storm & just suggest & guide.  Watch his expression.  Sometimes a youngster will step forward with a hard eye... that is the first steps of a guardian youngster so you praise, "good watch".  So you have to read your dog.  If the dog runs to the door in full on assault mode... have this planned out with the person.  If the dog does that... he runs off.  end of exercise.  You praise, "good watch... good watch" & pet your dog.  When the 'bad guy' is safely in his vehicle you open the door (if it's a fenced yard) release him to go sniff where the 'bad guy' was.  If you don't have a fenced yard... put him on leash & walk him out to do his job.  Notice his body posture.  Notice his eyes.  The minute he uses his nose & picks up the stranger's scent often times he will gruff or grumble under his breath.  You say, "good watch".   Males will sometimes mark over the scent of this intruder.
Do not have this person come into the house after this exercise.
Do not get excited & go into a frenzy yourself.  The young dog in training needs you to be his calm in the storm.
Do not treat this as a game.
All my guardian pups are started in just this manner.  My old dogs teach my pups.  Even my 3 pound Chihuahua puppy will do the above.

No need to do this over & over again.  Especially with a breed who is powerful in defense.  My Giant Schnauzer came pre-loaded so to speak.  One time of someone coming to the door (in this case it was an unwanted visitor) & trying the door handle & it was all I could do to keep her from going through the glass in the door.  So you must think safety first.  Set this up with your helper.  So he or she knows if the dog does (this) you do (that).  I use cell phone connection to tell the person run for the truck & take off.  They use the phone in the event something went wrong. 
I hope this helps.  For a lot of reasons there is seldom a requirement with some breeds to go further.  Once you awaken the 'giant within' he doesn't go back to sleep.  Where people get into trouble is they get a kick out of this training & they take it too far, make it a game & soon they have a biting, vicious nightmare.  Or they egg the dog on at the poor postman or UPS driver.  There's no need for that.  You create a problem rather than train solid stabilization.