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Realistic Suburban Adaptability?

Hi, do you live on the east or west side of melb? as I know of quite a few parks and beaches which are open to dogs off their leashes which is probably the best way to get your dog socialized from a young age. If you want a friendly companion which you could take anywhere anytime that gets along with others I'd probably be cautious about getting any LGD's as it is part of their temperament to be protective. If I were after a large dog which could be intimidating due to their size but also be friendly to everything, I'd be looking into getting a newfoundland or similar. Most of these dogs will take to suburban life acceptably well as long as you keep their brains active, not simply taking them for a walk once or twice a day but spending time with them and learning from them while they learn from you. It's not as much the size of the yard that the dog lives in that keeps a dog happy, it's the size of the world you give your dog inside it's head which makes it happy. Good luck in your quest.
Replies (66)
    • Before CM TV shows I had a Work Pack I was fortunate enough to have a huge fenced in property that the presents of dogs deterred thefts, most of the "bad dogs" that I got were introduced into work pack slowly over a week or so and YES there was a a few squabbles at first but it did not take long for the dogs to figure out that it was a pretty good place to live and they adjusted..the put down dog had no pack problems at all it flat out hated people even those who raised it from a pup and was like leaving a loaded gun on a lunch table at school..you always knew something bad would happen just not to who or when, trust me I tried with this dog, but it was hopeless..and I came to think you were right to much time spent on a hopeless case was keeping from saving good dogs.
      • I thought you said that you raised it. What breed was the dog, male or female? Whether you had it from puppy or acquired it a little later, I think that by 4-5 months the behavior can be already set.
        • Sorry for late response He was a American Bulldog that was purchased as a house dog as a pup 6 weeks old, to replace my rottie. he was socialized loved other dogs but like people less and less as he got older if you approached him walking a dog you were OK let 3 minutes pass and you approach w/o dog he would flat out attack no growl no bark just go..I even thought maybe another trainer could see something I was missing and got 2 different people to try..he got both of them..the only non family member who was safe around him was a woman trainer who worked with him as a pup ( always at her place and always with dogs present) I had him at Univ of Penn for blood analysts and chemical makeup and I was told he had all 3 triggers for aggression ..even though he never showed dog agression..My son who was about 13-14 at the time had been with this pup everyday from the day 1 he went after him unprovoked with me present no warning( for 2nd time) just flat out attack..put him down that day I guess he was about 15-16 months at the end
          • [quote=isla49]I think that by 4-5 months the behavior can be already set.[/quote] :lol: Interesting. Thank you for lowering everybody's I.Q. with that gem of knowledge.
            • [quote=NickD] I had him at Univ of Penn for blood analysts and chemical makeup and I was told he had all 3 triggers for aggression ..even though he never showed dog agression..[/quote] Blood tests for aggression?...or do you mean THYROID issues, which can cause unprovoked or unpredictable behavior. :?: A lot of behavioral problems which are due to underlying medical issues are often inappropriately considered to be "born bad." BTW, do you think Mr. Bundy's childhood abuse had nothing to do with his behavior later? How can you prove someone or something is "born that way."
              • Interesting post Nick. I always wondered how some of the aggressive dogs that are not as far gone as the one you described would do if raised in the right hands from puppies. I find that unprovoked aggression and fear/avoidance behavior are sometimes based on the same basic twisted perception the dog has of its environment. With some of the more deeply ingrained dogs the only way to change their perception is through careful socialization from the start if they will go along with the program. With others whose actions are more conscious corrections and control are the way to go. Based on some of your posts on my thread about the boerboel I understood you like a soft approach. Did you correct this dog hard for some of his aggressive actions right from the start? I'm not saying that it would have fixed him but at least you'd know if his behavior was completely reactionary in nature or if he could've controlled his behavior after having experienced the consequences. If you did correct him how would he take it from you, did he ever try to take you on? It's very frustrating to see behavior like this in a pup and see it getting gradually worse instead of better in spite of your best efforts. I make progress with a dog that's getting worse by changing its environment and making myself its center. I isolate it in a kennel and don't allow it any contact with another dog or another family member. I'd take the dog out twice a day and work on socializing it. Before this taking it out of the home environment made it apprehensive. It had no reason to want to be with me and that made it concentrate on all the things it was having a problem with. Once it was isolated the dog is very happy to see me, this elevates his pack drive and gives it reason to follow me around. This allows it to disregard and desensitize to some of the things that were a problem before. This method works very well except you don't really know how bad the dog was or would've become because you solved the problem. I'm sure that in some extreme cases no progress can be made.[quote=Xamen13]:lol: Interesting. Thank you for lowering everybody's I.Q. with that gem of knowledge.[/quote] hmm.. IQ (intelligence quotient) is a measure of a person's innate intelligence, I didn't think it could be that easily lowered.. I will however admit the possibility in your case.[quote=Igmuska]How can you prove someone or something is "born that way."[/quote] You can never prove it because these dogs are rare, when they're found they're already set in their way, and to my knowledge there is not enough interest to study this issue scientifically. But when you're exposed to enough dogs you see it. As a professional trainer these dogs will come your way because they're out there and the owners just don't know what to do with them. You can then fairly easily judge by the way the person behaves, you learn to read people too working with dogs, the kind of upbringing the dog had. Usually nothing that would be conducive to making the dog the way it is. It's simple comparison. Dogs owned by what we consider normal people are raised in an environment with similar stimuli and need to make similar adjustments starting off from an average kind of temperament. Some dogs that are away from the average in one way or another make bigger adjustments. The one's Nick and I are talking about are very far away from normal and incapable of making the adjustment. It's obvious when you see it by comparison to other dogs.
                • This dog started and stayed a house pet a replacement for my sons Rottie I raised him like every other dog I ever owned FIRM but gentle , he was a wacko as a PUP he NEVER EVER went after any of the house hold members or people at our puppy school..if ANYTHING he was without a doubt the SMARTEST dog I ever owned examples every door had to be bolted he by 6 months had learned how handles worked..saw him drag a kitchen chair to re frig to get to a toy on top..(saw from my kitchen window) He also graduated #1 in his class at Puppy socializing and agility but despite all that HE NEVER liked people . And yes he was neutered at 5 months when I knew I never wanted to pass his genes on;My vet when he was 7 months old suggested U of Penn for blood work and complete exam by their doctors as he never saw anything as mean as this pup. I was told by U of P staff that there are 3 chemicals that regulate aggression ..he had all 3 I think testosterone level is one. they were amazed he was not dog aggressive.. they did say they never saw a neutered dog with his levels of testosterone Igmuska I respect your knowledge and posts , when I say blood tests that is what I was told or led to believe( I am not a Vet)..I know I helped them get blood vials from him at least 2 .They showed me a monitor with 3 spikes and explained to me he was chemically inbalanced..he would get so angry with them that he honest to god got the worst bloodshot eyes anyone ever saw..like his blood pressure was skyhigh..they gave him pills that were supposed to help him chill but after about a month and a half they were working about 40% of the time. I would venture a guess that he had no physical issue like cancer or liver disease because after spending about 2400.00 on him not 1 vet at 1 of the best vet Hospitals in the world had a clue what to do I can only tell you that he was NEVER abused from 6 weeks old to 16 months My son loved this dog and played with him 24/7 he slept in my sons room and was fed by my son and he played with my son but when I eliminated any source for him to attack he turned on my son..who did a bad thing and lied to me that he got torn up jumping a fence 11 stitches when the dog 1st got him at about 12 months 2nd time he got my son I was there and he laying down and w/o cause went after my son got him , I grabbed him knocked him on his ass and he backed down I put him outside and took my son to doctor (about 14 months) And I do not mean a quick snap bite I mean a full out shake head and rip attack which he only stopped because of my action..never a growl or a warning bark or anything..The last and final time we were in kitchen for breakfast my son was eating cereal when the dog came from behind me and just went berserk grabbing my son by the leg and my son was wailing on dog who just would not let go I hit him and tackled him at the same time and dragged him outside where I saw the bloodshot eyes he was about 16 months old.. Just some quick background my son(when he was born) came home from the hospital and was met by 3 big dogs..he came to work with me from 5 years old and up to feed and play with my work dogs ( never less than 5 at work), so its not like he not used to dogs or did not understand by 14 what to do with a dog. He never attacked me or my wife . But he got my vet his tech 2 Uof P vets a co worker 2 other pro trainers and my son..he went after 10-15 more people but thanks to good leash's and fences he did not get them. And since I have been saving dogs for over 25 years that my local shelters said were un adoptable and giving them a decent home and in all honesty with all those dogs a lot who were abused I never saw anything like this dog..and NONE of my dogs ever bit a kid stranger or not let alone the kid who was feeding them.
                  • Sounds like this dog may have had problems recognizing people. Like a dog that sees a truck moving in the distance and lunges after it behaving like it was a prey object moving right close to it. It almost seems like an eye sight issue but really it's the way the brain processes the information. Did you get him from a breeder? If so did you ask whether other puppies from this breeder had similar problems? Was this breeder known for producing AB with aggression? The AB I've seen didn't have people aggression.
                    • No ill intentions meant Nick, (as we have discussed this topic elsewhere) I believe this was a simple way of explaining a glandular problem, not just raw aggression, which happens to be a symptom, not a cause. It must have been rough to go through. At the end of the day, we can speculate and talk all day, but the one who had all the answers can't...
                      • Strange attitude from someone who's supposed to be a veterinarian. Sure the bottom line is everything in the body and mind is chemistry. Sure you can dope up a dog enough to change it into a walking zombie. But this is not the issue here. Have you ever seen the damage an aggressive dog can inflict on a person? Had it been your child I wonder how tolerant you'd be.
                        • I live in a very crowded place.My frontdoor is almost my neighboursdoor and there are100 frontdoors in my street.All very close.The neighbours from the other side of my street arent further than 3 meters. I socialised my dogs and all goes well but we forget that sometimes we dont know whatheppens next door. I walk trough my street.A door flies open and a mad man comes out runns into me and my dog (because of all the noise i am shocked and react diffrent than normal) than i have a huge problem because my dog realy goes out of his mind.To be anest my gsd is more easy to control than my co just because their power and protection instinct.This is just an example but you can talk about million unexpected things. A friend of my sonn brought him home.He had a broken arm and was crieing so hi friend pushed him inside the door and my gsd bit him just because of the situation. I know dogs can judge pritty well whats right or wrong but we dont know always for sure so how can we expected they can. I am always alert and still things heppen. I need to walk my dogs close to people.Their are people who live crowdy but have a big yard or woods close.Than you can avoid a lot of these things and stil live in a surbun envirement
                          • [quote=isla49]Strange attitude from someone who's supposed to be a veterinarian. Sure the bottom line is everything in the body and mind is chemistry. Sure you can dope up a dog enough to change it into a walking zombie. But this is not the issue here. Have you ever seen the damage an aggressive dog can inflict on a person? Had it been your child I wonder how tolerant you'd be.[/quote] :?: I don't know what this statement is supposed to mean...Do you think I'm not sorry for Nick? ...I don't believe I was excusing or criticizing anything that was done. In fact, I think Nick did all he could and then some. Where did I say I was tolerant? In fact, where did I criticize Nick's decision to euthanize his dog (which I agree with)? I was just remarking on aggression for the sake of such versus symptomatic aggression as a result of a greater problem in a effort to clear up what was said. Lately, people have been "summarizing" their thoughts and this makes it difficult to decypher exactly what was meant/happened. Next time when anyone reads my posts, please leave emotion out of it. If I "feel" a certain way, I will tell you or use these smiley things...I didn't have any "attitude" regarding this conversation, do you?
                            • Local Breeder, 7 pups 6 normal ( all dog agressive people passive) 1st litter..2nd breeding 8 pups 5 males 3 females , 6 good dogs 1 questionable dog 1 very bad dog..again the pick of the litter again over 120lbs at 10.5 months ( no other dog in either litter hit 115lbs..) Breeder stopped this breeding after he saw both dogs.Both bad dogs were more brindle the rest were mostly white to all white He was at U of penn owner called me for help..difference is he also dog agressive, not neutered and he had at the time had him tested for everything I had plus some other tests. I did have his bloodpressure checked as well as a tyroid check hes was there overnite for 3 days at a time for a total of 4 times. He had a amazing metabolism..would not overeat. ( or eat from strangers).his frame was huge and he had zero fat..and could run all day. The second bad dog from what I was told did the same as mine he went off like a light switch with no warning bark or growl and had injured the breeder , the owner and some vet techs, I lost contact with him after he bit the owner for the 2nd time.I assume they put him down also..I know the breeder was wary enough after he got bit at 7 months to have both parents tested and to sell the bitch so he would never have a mistake litter. I feel bad that I did not let U of Penn examine him when I put him down, I fiqured we both had suffered enough and just buried him in his favorite spot in yard.
                              • Nick, based on your last post it's clear to me that it was just the dog's temperament. There was an unknown trigger there for aggression towards people. I'm guessing that that the dog was not reacting in an involuntary way, it was more of a conscious action. By this I simply mean that with strong enough negative consequences in every situation that made him fire (practically impossible to do) those dogs would have thought twice about it. I'm also guessing that it was based in dominance or social aggression as was previously discussed in another thread. As was also mentioned social aggression is probably not a good thing to bring into the bull breeds, as they don't appear to go through all the posturing that would give some warning and time to dissipate the situation. Rather they go full throttle every time they're stimulated, a very dangerous animal to keep around.
                                • Igmuska i have a question.Have you any idea what the influence is when you take a pup home with 4 weeks.Take it away by their mom.I saw with my chi litter that she corrected them firm in the past 2 weeks (6/8) and learned them to behave. I took my first gsd home with 4 weeks and he was always humen agressive ,had nothing to do with dogs unless i told him that he was allwed to fight.he never fought for dominance only for me. He started biting people at the age of 7 weeks.No playing just agression.Its never went away.I trained a lot.Tried to socialise him as far was possible. It never went away but i could live with him.For me wonderful dog. Now agfter the dogs i owned including co pups i know for sure that he wasnt right at all. Do you think that picking a pup away from mom too soon can reflected this way?
                                  • [quote=desiree] Do you think that picking a pup away from mom too soon can reflected this way?[/quote] Yes. There are a lot of things that affect the outcome of a dogs personality, hormone levels, puppy development and socialization, even vaccinations at specific life stages have been shown to affect personality outcomes. The sacriest ( I have only seen it once) is when there is no seen reason for such behavior (all health tests and upbringing are normal). Not only does their initial genetic makeup play a part, but how the environment affects this makeup. When I get home, if you like, I can quote a few studies I have read about behavior shaping in puppies.
                                    • NickD, I am wondering if your past dog had a seizure type disorder. I was working at a shelter that was housing a gorgeous mastiff X. Was aprox 6 month old. Owners gave it up because of sudden onset of agression for no reason. We couldn't figure out why this dog would turn on you out of nowhere.... until she had a gran mal seziure infront of us. The shelter got her on anti seziure meds and she didn't have another episode. Although, I guess it wouldn't explain the blood test you got back from the U of Penn. But, its a theory.
                                      • The correct time to take a pup out of the litter is at 7 weeks of age. You will hear this over and over again in working dog circles. The reasoning is that up to that age the pup gets imprinted by the other pups and the mother learning important social skills necessary for living with other dogs and to an extent people. If left any longer it will start to form a stronger bond with dogs and will not bond to people properly. Also socialization to other stimuli must begin then or the dog may never fully accept it. Taking a dog out of the litter too early is supposed to correspond to problems with other dogs into maturity. I've never had experience with this. Taking a pup out too late corresponds to a dog that doesn't bond as well as it could have with his people, and prefers following dogs. Also avoidance problems with strange/new stimuli. This I have experience with as it is the more common scenario. Of course sometimes it can go well either way or go bad even if taken out of the litter at the correct time. Sometimes people for one reason or another do not have a choice of when they can take a pup. For me starting on the right foot means taking a pup at 7 weeks. This also allows me to test the pups in the context of the litter as they usually will all still be there. At 7 weeks pups will show you temperament traits that may not have been there a week before. 7 weeks is the latest time to do tests with the pups as a litter before you're starting to run into socialization problems, consequently it is the best time.
                                        • a dog that doesn't bond as well as it could have with his people, and prefers following dogs. Disagree with that. I took inar home when he was 7 months.he lived in a kennel with only dogs and he is bonding very strong even stronger than the other pups.More sensitive for corrections too. I knew what the perfect age is,i asnt a planned litter from a farm .The female took off got back pregnant with 15 pups.They were addicted to drugs and couldnt care for the pups thats why they left too early. Up to the day of today i am still wondering if he would be diffrent with the knowledge i know now.Sopcialisation is very importend but when your dog is biting people and acting agressive even at a young age people are avoiding him so you come in a circle that makes it even harder to socialise him .Came at the police training age of 6 months to see if it works and train him better.The man said we will test him if he wants to bite i said put a sleeve on .My dog was very agressive and didnt back off what ever he was trieing.They wanted him but i noticed that reward him for his bite behaviour was the wrong way :D
                                          • As far as puppy apt. tests go, I like Volhard's. Its very straight forward, and every time I have used it in the context of a litter it has helped me pick the perfect pup for me. http://www.volhard.com/pages/pat.php
                                            • interesting site i picked the one who was sitting in the corner watching all what was heppening but didnt gave a dam about what i was doing.So thats the one i was in love with.Great dog for me,had him for 10 years but a danger for strangers.
                                              • Sounds like you found the dog that was right for you. This method has different gradients so you can pick the dog that falls inbetween a challange and an easy dog to own. With this test it is just easy to find a pup for your suitability and preference.
                                                • [quote=desiree]a dog that doesn't bond as well as it could have with his people, and prefers following dogs. Disagree with that.[/quote] You disagree with "that" basing your opinion on one dog who's full history up to seven months you may or may not be aware of versus what is accepted common knowledge in working dog circles for many years based on observation of thousands of litters. Brilliant![quote=desiree]i picked the one who was sitting in the corner watching all what was heppening but didnt gave a dam about what i was doing.[/quote] There are always exceptions to the rule and someone may end up with a good dog making all the wrong decisions. But picking the aloof puppy that distinguishes itself from the rest because it stays apart is the most common mistake of people who don't understand dogs. Even a complete novice, who has a feeling for dogs, will pick a puppy that comes to play with it. But hey, all puppies need to go to someone so if you're happy with it then it turned out good.
                                                  • The tested true age to socially wean a pup from its litter is between 6-8 weeks. That being said, interestingly enough, when dogs placed in homes with unrelated dogs, bonding and response to humans was unaffected. Litter mates raised together produced one successful (working dogs) and one unsuccessful every time, even though both pups would pass the Volhard and later aptitude testing. Pups raised with their mothers never passed. Pups raised in kennels but separated from relation were successful (which is why I assume Inar bonded as well as he did). The ideal of the Volhard testing between 6 and 8 weeks is the peak intersection between social attraction (lack of fear in a young puppy) decline and the social fear (often referred to fear imprint period) incline. You can judge the fear response and recovery without damaging the pup's secondary socialization permanently. Another interesting fact : Slabbert and Rasa (1997) have demonstrated that puppies (9 to 12 weeks of age) exhibited greater trainability as narcotics detectors by 6 months of age if they were permitted to observe their mother performing searching exercises. This has also been a long time practice of French Ring trainers who have been known to line practice fields with crates holding puppy prospects. Early weaning can cause "emotional rigidness, overreactivity, increased vigilance and anxiety. Such dogs are prone to develop attachment-related problems involving separation distress...Though they are more likely to develop aggression problems towards other dogs as adults, dogs forming overly exclusive bonds with an owner can become suspicious or aggressive towards strangers, viewing them as a threat to their attachment." Des, because of your constant care, your young pup developed a jealous streak, so to speak... Socialization, rearing, and development fascinate me.
                                                    • Pups raised in kennels but separated from relation were successful (which is why I assume Inar bonded as well as he did). So i am not the only one who disagree with that.Inar was just an example not the only dog i base my opinion on.And yes i base my opinions on what i see for myself.I dont fallow blind peoples opinions who say that they have sooo much experiences because we all act diffrent and pick up things diffrent,See things diffrent.Always open for somebodys opinion and stories and learn things. maby when i am another 20 years further i think diffrent.I learned a lot from the first dog years ago and still learning everyday but my handling and thinking is also a way diffrent than years ago.Inar is a dog from the workinglines.Working people have experience with workinglines.Is the dog not good enough they pick another.Most of the time same way of training.So experience in the same line.Give the working man a feardog and he will have no idea how to work him. Experienced people disagree even more with eachother. Des, because of your constant care, your young pup developed a jealous streak, so to speak... Jealous can be.The strange thing is that he loved the whole family including nephews and nieces.There no jealous at all.Maby also a little breed influence malinois mix from a farm. Another thing is that people talk about the co doesnt bond very well.To be anest my 3 co pups bonded much more than my german sheppards. Not talking about that they do always what i want :D
                                                      • Des, I meant moreso "jealous" of strangers, which is what was found within the study and really it isn't jealousy per say, as I was just playing with the meanings, sorry to confuse you. Oh I agree, COs are very attached to their families. Obedience and bonding are not the same thing.
                                                        • :D Ok i understand.Thanks for explaining playing with meanins is sometimes a bit difficult for me. :D
                                                          • [quote=Igmuska]Twhen dogs placed in homes with unrelated dogs, bonding and response to humans was unaffected.[/quote] The rest of your post I agree with. But I don't think it so much a matter of relation but of age. It is likely that when pups were placed with unrelated dogs there was a significant age difference which would lead to that conclusion. I have two unrelated (different breeds) pups here right now with a two week age difference. I had to separate them completely because the younger was going downhill fast. There is a marked improvement a few days after separation.
                                                            • [quote=isla49]The rest of your post I agree with. But I don't think it so much a matter of relation but of age. It is likely that when pups were placed with unrelated dogs there was a significant age difference which would lead to that conclusion. I have two unrelated (different breeds) pups here right now with a two week age difference. I had to separate them completely because the younger was going downhill fast. There is a marked improvement a few days after separation.[/quote] Well, we do agree which is why I said dogs instead of puppies... :wink: Sorry, I should have been clearer about that, but I was tired. Though two pups unrelated raised together will usually produce the same result, it isn't quite as intense as littermates (so the studies say). I happen to agree with your observations. Earlier you made a comment about socialization and serving its purpose (in relation to guardian dogs being "over" socialized and not guarding vs. "under" socialized and possibly aggressive). Do believe that intense socialization will ruin a guardian dog? I treat socialization similar to the way guide dog rearers do, intense and very complete, but I demand quite a lot out of my dogs. I also believe that a great amount of socialization helps a guardian make a proper choice when necessary.
                                                              • Recent study at Ontario Veterinary College: Assessing Temperament in Young Puppies By: Pamela J. Reid & Nathan J. Penny Discord between owner and dog is often the result of a fundamental mismatch between the lifestyle of the human and the behavioural tendencies of the dog. Attempts to avoid mismatches have led to the development of puppy tests, purported to assess the basic personality of the puppy, and predict how it will behave as an adult. The goal of our study was to standardize the popular Puppy Aptitude Test and correlate the results with both breeder assessments of the puppies, as well as with owner reports of the puppies' behaviour during the first year following adoption. We ran 46 litters (279 puppies in total), each at 49 days of age, through a battery of tests designed to assess their sociability to humans and their reactivity to stimuli. The results correlated moderately well with the breeder assessments but did not predict how the puppies would behave in their permanent homes. We conclude that a standardized test is able to generate an accurate picture of puppy temperament, but the changing milieu during development and the influence of learning prevent the reliable prediction of future behaviour.
                                                                • I find that article funny and probably true. The vast majority of dog owners don't have a clue about dogs and get them for all the wrong reasons. Never mind selecting for temperament when the problem begins by selecting the wrong breed. Someone buys a rottweiler because they think it's cute and expect it to be a perfect pet. I'd say in most cases the mismatch occurs almost instantly when the puppy starts eliminating in the house and later starts jumping up on people and doesn't come when called which leaves the owners at a disappointed loss. Puppy temperament tests are for people who invest their time and effort to educate themselves about dogs in order to get something good in life. I'd say those people are a small minority. Taking this into consideration the results of the study are not surprising but should not be taken as gospel by those who are serious about dog ownership. Puppy temperament tests work and if you follow through with raising the pup properly you'll get a dog that's pretty damn close to what you had in mind. This I apply to traditional working dogs. I don't know enough about how temperament tests in molosser puppies turn out.
                                                                  • I soooo agree. People do more research in my experience buying a home or purchasing a car than picking out a breed right for thier lifestyle. For those people it is easier to dump a dog than it is the car. :cry:
                                                                    • Puppy temperament tests are for people who invest their time and effort to educate themselves about dogs in order to get something good in life I grew up hehehe and now know a lot more but than there is another problem. One dog came from Lithuania and the other two from ukraine and i am not able like more people to go over there test him and later pick him up. So than it depends on the breeder.
                                                                      • This I apply to traditional working dogs. I don't know enough about how temperament tests in molosser puppies turn out. What is a 'traditional working dog' vs. a molosser. Might be some overlap there. I haven't seen any puppy aptitude tests that claim to be breed specific. Furthermore, if the puppy aptitude tests were designed as an attempt to avoid mismatches between the owner's lifestyle and the dog's behavioral tendencies, why aren't they used more and why aren't more dogs successful in their homes? Drive traits are often used to make predictions about the later behavior of dogs. Some puppy tests and adult temperment tests are used to identify certain drive traits and then predict abilities/future performance of the dogs. None of these tests has ever been shown to identify these traits and to predict future behavior. Think about the high attrition rate of seeing eye dogs in training or explosive detection dogs.
                                                                        • Traditional or conventional working dogs is a term I use to lump together dogs like GSD, Mal, Rott, labrador retriever etc. These are working dogs that were designed in one capacity or another to work closely with the handler. I find that the temperament tests I know predict fairly accurately how the dog will turn out. One of the reasons they can turn out the way you expect is because of the trainability these breeds possess. Once well selected a puppy through correct upbringing can be molded. These dogs have a degree of malleability and once the conditioning is set it holds at some of the deepest levels of temperament. By contrast I consider molossers to have been developed to work independently. While some possess a good degree of willingness I still find trainability low. With these dogs I think what you got from the beginning is what you get so to speak. Training doesn't hold the way it does with the traditional working breeds. They seem to always be thinking about what to do when you require something of them. Because of this it seems to me that puppy temperament tests may not hold in these dogs because you can't follow through with molding the dog other than some of the most basic things like house breaking for example. These have been my observations so far as I have a lot to compare the molossers to. I've never considered temperament tests as a way to avoid mismatches. I always looked at temperament tests as a way for me to get the dog I want which must possess certain temperament qualities necessary for a protection dog. As mentioned before more dogs are not successful in their homes because most people are idiots when it comes to dogs. I don't think there's another field in existence where so much BS is accepted as fact and everyone's an expert. [blockquote]Think about the high attrition rate of seeing eye dogs in training or explosive detection dogs.[/blockquote] I disagree with this statement. If you read the New Knowledge of Dog Behavior by Clarence Pfaffenberger you will see that they got the success rate of seeing eye dogs to something like %90 once they tuned their breeding program and puppy selection process. Same goes for narcotic detection dogs. I'm familiar with the training of narcotic detection dogs but not with explosive detection dogs. May be the same process except that I believe for explosives a passive alert is required.
                                                                          • Well perhaps Mr. Pfaffenberger should have Guide Dogs for the Blind update their website. It states: The reasons the dogs are dropped from our programs are generally two-fold: Behavioral reasons (60%): high activity level, incompatibility with cats or other dogs, assertiveness requiring strong handler leadership. Some of these dogs may not be suitable for homes with young children or other pets. Medical reasons (40%): anything from allergies to cataracts to varying severities of dysplasia (hip and elbow). A bit different from %90 success don't you think? But, thanks for book recommendation.
                                                                            • Is this statement correct in your opinion- "Some breeds are more wild than others. Or in other words some are more domesticated." Therefore, taking this to an extreme to make a point- If I get a wild animal, bear, tiger, wolf, etc, I can expect to train that animal to a certain point using conventional animal training methods. Pavlovian training. However, I still must expect it to retain its wild instincts. Doesn't this apply to these various breeds of dogs.
                                                                              • [quote=sbates]Well perhaps Mr. Pfaffenberger should have Guide Dogs for the Blind update their website. It states: The reasons the dogs are dropped from our programs are generally two-fold: Behavioral reasons (60%): high activity level, incompatibility with cats or other dogs, assertiveness requiring strong handler leadership. Some of these dogs may not be suitable for homes with young children or other pets. Medical reasons (40%): anything from allergies to cataracts to varying severities of dysplasia (hip and elbow). A bit different from %90 success don't you think? But, thanks for book recommendation.[/quote] %60 and %40 together make %100 failure rate. That sure is different than %90 success rate I quoted. Good job!
                                                                                • well, I don't think they are additive. How do you interpret what I copied and pasted directly??? http://www.guidedogs.com/site/PageServer?pagename=programs_dog_adoption I think 90% is overly optimistic.
                                                                                  • [quote=sbates]well, I don't think they are additive. How do you interpret what I copied and pasted directly???[/quote] Out of the %10 that don't make the grade %60 do so for one reason and %40 for the other reason. %90 is optimistic but I'm just regurgitating what I read 15 years ago when I was really interested in any information about dogs I could find. As such my memory could be faulty and it may be %80 or %70 but still that would be a rate that is highly consistent with predictions. You didn't acknowledge my point about narcotic detection dogs which is related to explosive detection dogs. All you need for that is a dog with extreme ball drive. Fairly easy to make this assessment in about 3 minutes with a young dog.
                                                                                    • There are always exceptions to the rule and someone may end up with a good dog making all the wrong decisions. But picking the aloof puppy that distinguishes itself from the rest because it stays apart is the most common mistake of people who don't understand dogs. One of the wrong things is also picking a pup from parents you dont have info from.
                                                                                      • I tend to believe this a little more... [blockquote]Whatever system the agencies use for acquiring dogs- be they animals reared in-house, or purchased or donated puppies, or rescued dogs from shelters- the majority fail. A 50 percent flunk-out rate is the number just about all the agencies admit to. Trying th get accurate figures is difficult. Publishing failure rates in not good publicity, and even honest answers can be favorably colored. Questions are often answered with "It depends on how you count," which is fair enough and true. The fact is that no matter how you count, the percentage or dogs that graduate is not great.[/blockquote] I could go on, but the point is here. Later this book makes a similar statement to what Sarah said. I feel this is true for K9 dogs as well, having talked to people involved with training facilities.
                                                                                        • [quote="sbates"]Recent study at Ontario Veterinary College: Assessing Temperament in Young Puppies By: Pamela J. Reid & Nathan J. Penny Discord between owner and dog is often the result of a fundamental mismatch between the lifestyle of the human and the behavioural tendencies of the dog. Attempts to avoid mismatches have led to the development of puppy tests, purported to assess the basic personality of the puppy, and predict how it will behave as an adult. The goal of our study was to standardize the popular Puppy Aptitude Test and correlate the results with both breeder assessments of the puppies, as well as with owner reports of the puppies' behaviour during the first year following adoption. We ran 46 litters (279 puppies in total), each at 49 days of age, through a battery of tests designed to assess their sociability to humans and their reactivity to stimuli. The results correlated moderately well with the breeder assessments but did not predict how the puppies would behave in their permanent homes. We conclude that a standardized test is able to generate an accurate picture of puppy temperament, but the changing milieu during development and the influence of learning prevent the reliable prediction of future behaviour. [/quote] Dog World ran an article a couple years back that pup temperament tests are poorly predict adult dog behavior. Havent seen the article discussed online and I misplaced the copy. Hopefully someone reading this has a copy on hand.
                                                                                          • [quote=desiree]There are always exceptions to the rule and someone may end up with a good dog making all the wrong decisions. But picking the aloof puppy that distinguishes itself from the rest because it stays apart is the most common mistake of people who don't understand dogs. One of the wrong things is also picking a pup from parents you dont have info from.[/quote] I like the aloof pups for myself. My Bruno (first ATTS TT breed earner) was so aloof as a pup that when i got down and the floor, patting floor and calling happily he would walk right by me as if I wasnt there. Aloof may need to be distinguished from avoidance. Personally, I lke the cool, calm ones.
                                                                                            • [quote=EsqCaucasians]I like the aloof pups for myself. My Bruno (first ATTS TT breed earner) was so aloof as a pup that when i got down and the floor, patting floor and calling happily he would walk right by me as if I wasnt there. Aloof may need to be distinguished from avoidance. Personally, I lke the cool, calm ones.[/quote] Is this what you breed for? Lets consider then two scenarios in evaluating a litter of traditional protection dogs. If a particular pup ran back/away from a stranger approaching the puppy pen and stayed away it is a sign of avoidance. An undesirable trait, the pup is clearly afraid of new stimuli and this will always be present even as an adult dog. Although it can be masked to a degree by later conditioning and become not so obvious it's still a fundamental part of the makeup of that dog and will surface when the dog is pressured. In another scenario if it simply stayed back while other puppies ran to a stranger coming to the puppy pen you're saying that it's not avoidance but the puppy is aloof. The puppy may be aloof but all I see is a dog that is not interested in checking out a new potentially threatening situation. This makes for a disinterested dog as an adult. Disinterested in everything including suspicious or threatening actions by people. Granted I've said these tests work for the traditional protection breeds and I don't know much about the CO. Can you please explain what it is about aloofness in an adult CO that you like? Maybe describing a situation and how an aloof and not aloof CO would behave. Or maybe you're not looking for a protection dog at all in which case this is a moot discussion. If you're using a temperament test to select for aloofness then you're really not selecting for anything. BTW I think if someone appreciates aloofness in an animal a cat would be another great option :)
                                                                                              • [quote=isla49"][quote="EsqCaucasians]I like the aloof pups for myself. My Bruno (first ATTS TT breed earner) was so aloof as a pup that when i got down and the floor, patting floor and calling happily he would walk right by me as if I wasnt there. Aloof may need to be distinguished from avoidance. Personally, I lke the cool, calm ones.[/quote] Is this what you breed for? Lets consider then two scenarios in evaluating a litter of traditional protection dogs. If a particular pup ran back/away from a stranger approaching the puppy pen and stayed away it is a sign of avoidance. An undesirable trait, the pup is clearly afraid of new stimuli and this will always be present even as an adult dog. Although it can be masked to a degree by later conditioning and become not so obvious it's still a fundamental part of the makeup of that dog and will surface when the dog is pressured. In another scenario if it simply stayed back while other puppies ran to a stranger coming to the puppy pen you're saying that it's not avoidance but the puppy is aloof. The puppy may be aloof but all I see is a dog that is not interested in checking out a new potentially threatening situation. This makes for a disinterested dog as an adult. Disinterested in everything including suspicious or threatening actions by people. Granted I've said these tests work for the traditional protection breeds and I don't know much about the CO. Can you please explain what it is about aloofness in an adult CO that you like? Maybe describing a situation and how an aloof and not aloof CO would behave. Or maybe you're not looking for a protection dog at all in which case this is a moot discussion. If you're using a temperament test to select for aloofness then you're really not selecting for anything. BTW I think if someone appreciates aloofness in an animal a cat would be another great option :)[/quote] Do I breed for calm dogs versus say hyper ones? Sure. You wrote: "In another scenario if it simply stayed back while other puppies ran to a stranger coming to the puppy pen you're saying that it's not avoidance but the puppy is aloof." Actually I don't read me saying much other than sharing an anecdote and suggesting that so-called aloof may need to be distinguished from avoidance. Keyword: may. To sum it up, some Caucasians are very catlike, and I have enjoyed that in some of my personal dogs. Just an anecdote. My Bruno was an example of a pup that some might have considered rather aloof at 49 days with a traditional pup temperament test, who developed into a confident, uncorruptable guard, a conformation champion, and the first ATTS TT dog in the US. At age 6, he was aloof at the ATTS as well, ignored the friendly stranger, kicked over the can of gravel, and pulled me off course to look behind the blind to check out the source of the gunshot without a startle. No big deal, just an anecdote, nothing to set off leaping conclusions. Certainly my import Faraon KS-1 (KS is a Russian protection cert) was very catlike and aloof too. I didn't know him as a puppy but imagine he may have been an aloof seeming pup as well. Are you a breeder? I've found breeding to be more art than science, with a feel for knowing it when you see it. I don't put much stock in puppy testing per se, but do believe that that G in LGD refers to Guardian and not lawn and Garden ornament. You wrote: "BTW I think if someone appreciates aloofness in an animal a cat would be another great option" That is a really silly statement regarding Caucasians (this is a thread in the CO forum) and regarding LGD in general as well.
                                                                                                • What does the acronym LGD stand for? I wouldn't call myself a breeder. Although if we focus on the traditional protection breeds I think the best breeder would be an active trainer. I hear you on the go by feeling vs tests thing. But some things are irrefutable. There are some behaviors that a pup will show you that based on previous experience you know %100 they'll carry through to the adult dog. Aloofness is one of these behaviors. Regarding the temperament test, for a working lines dog like a GSD or a Rott, passing is something I'd expect as a minimum. If a dog didn't pass a TT I wouldn't even keep it. Much more is required of them performance wise in standardized testing. Of course like you said this is the CO section so everything I'm saying may not be applicable to your breed. But the subject did move to puppy temperament testing in general. I'm just trying to understand how these dogs are different to what I'm used to. I have a suspicion that in their working capacity they're not meant to be socialized at all and as such the TT your dog passed may not even be suitable for them.
                                                                                                  • [quote=isla49]What does the acronym LGD stand for? I wouldn't call myself a breeder. Although if we focus on the traditional protection breeds I think the best breeder would be an active trainer. I hear you on the go by feeling vs tests thing. But some things are irrefutable. There are some behaviors that a pup will show you that based on previous experience you know %100 they'll carry through to the adult dog. Aloofness is one of these behaviors. Regarding the temperament test, for a working lines dog like a GSD or a Rott, passing is something I'd expect as a minimum. If a dog didn't pass a TT I wouldn't even keep it. Much more is required of them performance wise in standardized testing. Of course like you said this is the CO section so everything I'm saying may not be applicable to your breed. But the subject did move to puppy temperament testing in general. I'm just trying to understand how these dogs are different to what I'm used to. I have a suspicion that in their working capacity they're not meant to be socialized at all and as such the TT your dog passed may not even be suitable for them.[/quote] Google "Livestock Guardian Dogs" and purchase the book by the same name authored by Sims & Dawydiak to help lay the foundation for any future discussions.
                                                                                                      • [quote="isla49"]Thanks for the recommendation. [url=http://www.amazon.com/Livestock-Protection-Dogs-Selection-Training/dp/1577790626/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1227202209&sr=1-1]Did you mean Livestock protection dogs?[/url][/quote] Yes, that's it exactly.
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